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Summary

Last days,I bought a new house and I am considering how to decorate it. when thinking about wall-lighting sconces.My project is to place an array of LED strips on the walls,covered with translucent(or in some cases,opaque!) Yeah,Plexiglas plates mounted a few centimetres away. That's the plan anyway...

 

Preparation

At first, I need a 18W power supplies small enough to fit into an electrical box.Finally,I chose a power supply.This product could provide a full 1.5A without collapsing.However,upon opening the cases,the component temperatures after rumming at full-throttle for a new minutes suggested otherwise.The switching transistor,output rectifier,and output capacitor were all far too hot for comfort.I imagine the 18W spec is only valid for one day of use.

The 12V 18W PSU

Figure 1  The 12V 18W PSU. Notice the 100% efficiency (IN & OUT are both 18W), and 

the dire warning not to touch the surface of the plastic case because of high temperature

 

I also bought one PSU from Aliexpress.They behave differently than the first batch. From an external vantage point, they’ll only supply 1.3A as opposed to the former 1.5A. The output voltage collapses to 8V at 1.5A.Take it apart, and further differences appear. Most noticeably, the 12V output capacitor does not egregiously overheat at, say, 1.3A. Sure enough, the part has “Low ESR” printed on the case. The previous caps don’t.

PSUs from AliExpress (top) and another, forgotten source (bottom)

Figure 2  PSUs from AliExpress (top) and another, forgotten source (bottom). Note the 

convenient dates at the bottom of the boards. Manufacture has transitioned from phenolic to fiberglass

 

The design appears to be a simple self-oscillating circuit. I measured the switching frequency to be about 100 kHz. The 12V output caps are at the upper-right of each board. Though the legend says “1000µF 25V”, the installed caps are 470µF.

 

After discovering the output cap heat problem (but before getting the second PSU batch), I sourced a bagful of quality capacitors – 270µF @ 35V, still more than enough capacitance for this circuit, but with a high ripple-current rating and low ESR. Both of the boards above have these new parts installed. They run cool as a cucumber, versus the slight temperature rise of the second PSU caps, and of course, the extreme rise of the first ones.

Figure 3  The PCB bottoms reveal other minor design changes in the

newer boards – mainly exposed copper to pick up current-fortifying solder

 

I’m constantly struck by the strange state of affairs at this level of Chinese manufacture. Clearly, there is some thought and skill put into design and production, yet we still end up with stupidities, like unsuitable parts, or wishful-thinking specs. As I mentioned, other parts get hot too. The switching transistor can get toasty at higher loads, but it was the output rectifier I focused my measurements on. At 1.33A, free-air TC registered 90°C. At 1.2A, 86°C.

Figure 4  My test setup here at EDN Labs. Note the many safety protocols employed on the bench

 

Enclosed in its case, in an electrical box, I don’t think I’ll want to pull more than 1.1A from these PSUs. Hopefully, that will be enough for my LED lighting. Other options: Squeeze two PSUs into a box (possibly swapping the case for some shrink wrap or electrical tape), or, cut a hole in the case so I can bend the rectifier out and heat-sink it to the electrical box! Hmm. We’ll see.

 

Result

I didn't realize my plan until now.I am so tangle should choose which one? The last one,there is an absence of an AC line filter on the board.The former, at least, has a line filter, and even if they also don’t meet their output-current spec, they will certainly be better than the PSUs I’m using. But…they don’t fit into an electrical box.How do you think about my plan? Anyaway,I will attempt it again when I am free.

 

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